Matt & Nat's wheelie big adventure!

Fifty shades of beige

Food is pretty good in the oases

As we ride up to the military checkpoints, soldiers call “Australia” to each other; they’re expecting us. In fact they are keeping a closer eye on us than we’d realised – we’d snuck well off the road at dusk into some hills when a heavily armed jeep came speeding over the rocks – they’d followed […]

Fra fra away

Old town at dusk

After four more days riding a beautiful empty desert road, camping under a starry night sky, we have arrived at the remote Farafra oasis, way out west. We’re having a day off to clean up and eat our body weight in delicious light, moist falafel (made in Egypt from fava beans rather than chickpeas). Due […]

The popo

I went to the toilet here & got sand EVERYwhere. Sand and saddlesores are not a good mix.

There is a large police/military presence here and regularly our passports are checked, many questions answered and telephone calls made before we are allowed to continue on our way. We had a police escort for an hour yesterday which meant I couldn’t go to the toilet and when we stopped to drink water they beeped a lot […]

Special price, my friend

Strong sidewinds, blowing sand over the road - a bit tricky to cycle!

We headed west out of Luxor, over the Nile again, past sugarcane fields and into the empty windy Western Desert. This vast sandy desert stretches from the Mediterranean and the Nile to the Sudanese and Libyan borders and is uninhabited except for five oases, between 200 and 400km apart, lying on ancient camel caravan routes. […]

Toenails and temples

Walk like an Egyptian... they get into all the temples for free.

We extended our visas as we will take a few more weeks to ride Egypt, and on the way out of the passport office Matt stubbed his big toe very badly on a piece of metal sticking out of the ground. There was a lot of blood and pain and the doctor said that the […]

Snooze and cruise

Sunset from the deck

Two cycling friends have recently been separately threatened with a knife and iron bars on the Aswan – Luxor road, so we didn’t need any more of an excuse to cover the distance on a three day Nile cruise. We bagged a last-minute bargain for a top-notch cabin – hello bubble bath, sunrises, ancient monuments, excellent food, […]

Over the Aswan Dam


Huwa means wind in Arabic and there has been plenty of it. We just rode through the desert for three long tiring days into a strong constant headwind. Whenever we stopped to rest at the side of the road, a driver would pull over to check if we were okay and if we needed anything, […]

Abu Simbel

Love the beard

We’ve been happily stuck in the quiet friendly Nubian town of Abu Simbel for a couple of days, waiting for strong northerly dust storms to subside. We appear to be the only tourists in town and there are many abandoned and closed tourist hotels and cafes around. Egypt’s tourism industry has been pretty hard hit […]

Lower Nubia


It took several hours to cross the newly opened border crossing between Sudan and Egypt, despite being the only people being processed: bags were searched and x-rayed, yellow fever certificates were shown, Sudan police registration fees were paid (we were pardoned the late fine), tea was drank, money was changed, ebola tests were passed, passports […]

Kingdom of Kush


We followed the Nile from the relaxed little town of Dongola, famous for its palm groves, to Wadi Halfa in the far north of Sudan. This stretch of the river has hundreds of historic sights such as Ottoman forts, Kingdom of Kush temples and carvings from the Pharaoh who built Luxor (admittedly we didn’t actually […]

The deserts of Sudan

Wondering if I can go on...

We left Khartoum before dawn, crossing the Nile as the sun rose. The city is huge but traffic was remarkably considerate of us, and we rode out to a chorus of “welcome” and “good ride”, our panniers stuffed with food, water and loo roll. The Sudanese are just lovely, giving us thumbs up and waves all […]


Awesome Lebanese restaurant

Cycling across sprawling, low-built Khartoum during Friday prayers was brilliant timing as the streets were deserted, although we then had to wait a couple of hours for the restaurants to reopen to get a bite to eat. Khartoum is located where the Blue Nile and the White Nile merge to form the Nile and we’ve […]